Low-Profile Cali Raised LED Stealth Bumper With Dual Row LED Light Bar For 3rd Gen Toyota Tacoma – Detailed Installation Guide, Review & Overview
We overlanders spend a ton of our hard earn money investing in parts to improve the capabilities of our rigs. But how do we protect those investments?
The answer to that is body armor. With a vast market of armor parts available, Cali Raised LED, which has been making rock sliders and skid plates for quite some time, has finally entered the bumper market.
At the time of this write up, the Cali Raised LED Stealth bumper made its debut just a little over a week ago. We’ll dive into the bumper, give it an install and deliver a quick initial overview.
Find It Online
- Cali Raised LED Stealth Front Bumper For 3rd Gen (2016+) Toyota Tacoma: Check Price
- 32″ Dual Row 5D Optic Osram LED Bar: Check Price
Stealth Bumper Overview
The Stealth Front Bumper is Cali Raised LED’s answer to the low-profile bumper market. Coming in at 77 lbs., it’s lighter than many competitors. This is achieved by optimizing the plant of materials, thicker where it needs to be and thinner where it’s not necessary.
You have the option of running two 32” light bars, one behind the bumper and one behind the grill of your rig. If you really want to light up the night, you definitely can.
This bumper also allows you to install up to a 12,000lb winch and also includes a relocation bracket for your winch controller.
- Standard toolbox
- Dremel or cutting wheel, anything that can cut thick plastic
- Eye protection
- Metal file
- Small flat head screwdriver
- Sharply or something to draw Your cutting line
- Set of Allen wrenches
- (Suggested) Another person
- (Suggested) Breaker bar
Step 1. Remove Front Grille
Begin by removing the grill assembly. There are two clips and two screws that hold the top portion to the rig. The bottom and sides are held in by tabs.
Once you remove those upper screws and tabs, give the grill a solid tug, and it should just pop out.
An even pull on the entire grille is all that is needed.
Step 2. Remove Air Dams
There’s one tab on each air dam. Pop the single tab out and twist the air dam to remove it.
Step 3. Remove Black Bumper Section
There are two blue tabs on both ends of the back of the trim. The easiest way for me to pop them out was to use a small flat head to push down on the tab.
Once those two are removed, there’s a series of tabs around the back of the trim that need to be squeezed and popped out.
Step 4. Remove Plastic Reinforcement
Removal is super easy. Follow the outside, squeeze and remove the tabs.
Step 5. Remove Bumper Bolts
Below the truck, there are a few bolts that hold the bumper to the crash bar. Remove them.
Step 6. Remove Crash Bar
There are three nuts on the front of each end of the crash bar. Once you remove the nuts, carefully maneuver the bar and remove it.
Remove the crash bar support that connects to the frame. You can potentially remove the entire crash bar and support all at once if you are careful.
Step 7. Mark Bumper Cover Cut Lines
Mark out your cutting line where the old trim piece used to be. Leave about 1/2-3/4″ of the lip; you don’t need to cut the center portion of the bumper. Only start the cut near the second clip hole. The center doesn’t need to be cut. Using a cutting wheel, Dremel, sharp knife, etc. Trace the line and cut.
If you’re feeling a little uncomfortable about cutting, leave more of the lip, and when you test fit the bumper later, you can always cut more off.
Step 8. Relocate Power Steering Cooler & Lines
Remove the two bolts in the front and a third bolt behind the mud guard on the passenger side.
Third bolt behind the passenger’s side splash guard. Add a relocation bracket using the provided hardware to the passenger’s side. The new hardware should go in the single hole of the bracket, and the OEM bolt should go in the sliding portion. Make sure to leave the OEM bolt loose for now.
Later, when tightening down the bolt behind the mud guard, you’ll need to wrench it down until the bracket bends to shape. Shown above.
Add the relocation brackets to the front two mounting points. Push the power steering cooler as far back as possible without causing any issues. Tighten the two front bolts and then tighten the bolt behind the passenger mud guard.
Step 9. Remove Factory Tow Hooks
There should be three bolts under the passenger’s side and one under the driver’s side.
Step 10. Install LED Bar
Install the light bar bracket loosely. Make sure the L of the bracket is facing inwards. Additionally, make sure the flat side of the bracket is facing forward. If you install the brackets backward, the light will sit farther back, creating a large gap. Leave loose enough to adjust.
Install light bar. Using the provided thumb screws, attach the light bar to the brackets. Leave loose enough to adjust.
Adjust the light bar to the desired angle and tighten down all bolts.
Step 11. Mount Bumper
Push bumper into place and match it with the six studs. Place one or two nuts in to keep the bumper from falling down.
Above, you can see the bumper attached to the frame plates. Adjust the bumper to proper fitment, then tighten down the bolts and torque to 58 ft. lbs. Reinstall the air ducts, the grill assembly, and the TSS sensor, and you’re done!
Bumper Mounted On Truck
The bumper came out looking great! The lines of the bumper match the lines of the truck really well, and it gives the truck a more aggressive look without going overboard.
The install was very straightforward and super easy. The scariest part was definitely cutting the bumper, but unlike a few bumpers out there on the market, this bumper covers up the majority of the cutting line, so there is some room for error.
I’m looking forward to installing a winch and really getting to test it out! Check out @cali_raised_led on Instagram too. I appreciate you for taking the time out of your day to read this write-up! I’m getting the rig ready to go bang it against some rocks!