Volant Cold Air Intake for (2012-2015) 2nd Generation Toyota Tacoma: Fits Tacoma Pre-Runner & X-Runner (4.0L V6 Engines)
Depending on the automotive circle you enter, cold air intakes are actually somewhat of a controversial topic. Some people say there’s absolutely no point in installing a cold air intake (CAI) as the factory air intake is actually pulling in cold air, thus making it a cold air intake already. Why would you need to install a cold air intake if we’re already running one from the factory?
OEM VS Aftermarket
Well, let’s back up a second. The factory air intake is running a cumbersome setup designed around extreme carb-compliant and EPA emission standards. Aftermarket intakes typically run fewer components with less airflow restriction with upgraded filters, which allows more airflow through the throttle body with a richer air/fuel ratio, thus creating more power during the combustion process… in theory.
Aftermarket intakes are designed to increase airflow, increase horsepower – all while improving gas mileage. So this is where things get heated, some people will argue that cold air intakes do none of these things. Maybe they don’t want to spend the money, maybe they didn’t read the RWHP (rear wheel horsepower) or dyno reports, who knows.
The fact is, aftermarket cold air intakes do increase airflow, increase horsepower and absolutely have the potential to improve gas mileage depending on how heavy your foot is on the skinny pedal. Every aftermarket cold air intake company, including Volant, has its own dyno reports showing the hp gains and potential mpg improvements, however, these are typically done in the most ideal testing environments, and they don’t do them for every single make and model.
Real World Expectations
Many factors go into real-world horsepower gains and, more importantly, rear-wheel horsepower gains; elevation, GVWR, unsprung rotational tire mass, etc. Some trucks can pull 15hp from an intake, and some can pull 3hp. It really just depends on the bigger picture but the point remains – cold air intakes can improve horsepower, that is a fact.
You need to ask yourself whether or not you’re willing to spend $300+ on an intake for around a 3-10hp increase, a different sound, and the potential for better gas mileage. Let’s face it, the Tacoma is not fast and an intake alone is not going to push your build over the edge in terms of power but they sound amazing (to me personally) and bring much more oxygen into the air/fuel combustion process which is one of the necessary ingredients for increased power.
There are a lot of factors that go into how much power you’re going to get out of your engine – but when it comes down to it, if you want more horsepower then a cold air intake is something worth considering.
Find It Online
Volant Closed Box Air Intake for 2012-2015 Toyota Tacoma (4.0L V6)
Tools & Materials
- Metric Sockets
- 3/8″ Ratcheting drive
- 12″ Extension
- 6″ Extension
- Needle nose pliers
- Diagonal Cutting Pliers
- Zip Ties
Before getting started, it’s always important to disconnect the negative battery cable.
Before & After Intake Sound
Step 1. Remove Engine Cover
Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the engine cover in place then remove the cover. Set to the side, you will place this back on later.
Step 2. Remove Factory Intake
There are a few clamps and 10mm bolts holding the factory intake on.
- Loosen the clamp holding the air box to the throttle body
- Loosen the clamp holding the air inlet tube to the air box
- Remove both 10mm bolts
- Remove the 1/8th hose on the air box (this is on the backside of the intake close to the firewall).
- Loosen the air duct to the air box and remove the ducting off of the air box
- Unclip the air box and remove the filter
Step 3. Disconnect the MAF sensor
Remove the MAF sensor and harness from the air box. The mass airflow sensor is bolted into place with two Phillips head bolts and then also clipped on using a factory clip on the harness. You will not reuse it unless you plan on re-installing it.
Step 4. Remove 5/8″ Hose
Remove the 5/8″ breather hose for the air box near the throttle body. You can discard this elbow as you will not reuse it unless you plan on re-installing the factory intake one day.
Step 5. Air Injection Pump Cap
Remove the Air Injection Pump cap. There are two tabs that hold the cap on. You can simply pull this outwards on both sides and the lid comes off. You will not reuse the air injection pump lid unless you plan on re-installing the factory intake one day.
Step 6. Air Injection Pump Harness Clip Bracket
Using a pair of needle-nose pliers or bent needle nose pliers, you can remove the clip that is holding the wiring harness onto the bracket. You will not use this clip for the install of the intake however you can save it if you plan on reinstalling the factory intake.
Step 7. Air Injection Pump Bracket & Isolators
Remove the bracket. Remove and set the isolators to the side. You will re-use these for installing the air injection pump onto the intake.
Step 8. Mount Volant Air Box
Using the to factory 10 mm bolts, secure the air box into place.
Step 9. Mount Rubber Isolator Feet
Compress the rubber isolator pump mounts into the Volant air box then mount the pump onto the Volant air box.
Step 10. Mount Air Injection Pump
Step 11. Re-Route 5/8″ Breather Hose
Connect the factory pump line with the supplied elbow fitting and breather hose.
Step 12. Mount Air Intake Inlet to Air Box
Attach the inlet to the Volant filter box and tighten with two #64 clamps. Leave loose for now, you can come back, position these and then tighten down. Make sure that when you tighten these down you tighten them in an orientation where you can easily access them if you need to remove the intake. The same goes for all hose clamps on the intake.
Step 13. Mount MAF on Intake Inlet
Remove the factory o-ring from the MAF sensor and replace it with the supplied o-ring and new hardware.
Step 14. Position Air Inlet to Throttle Body
Attach the 3 1/2″ to 3″ reducer to the Volant duct and tighten with a #56 clamp. Then connect 5/8″ breather with the elbow.
Step 15. Connect 1/8″ Breather Hose to Intake Inlet
Press the 1/8 x 12″ breather hose to the duct and attach it to the factory line with the supplied fitting.
Step 16. Choose Lid Color
- Install the supplied filter and air box lid.
- Reattach the negative battery cable and engine cover.
Over on Trail4Runner.com, I have installed a handful of CAIs including the TRD, aFe, and another Volant Intake. Over on that site, a lot of people have asked me if cold air intakes work. After running a handful of them, it’s pretty clear that they do make a difference in engine performance.
The challenge and general argument is that many Toyotas come with factory-installed intakes and for the most part, very few drivers will notice the difference in horsepower or fuel economy after installing aftermarket kits because the gains and improvements are so minimal.
I can tell you first-hand though, I will always install an intake in my Toyotas if not for sound alone, and then pair it with an exhaust and finally a throttle response controller. Intakes paired with an exhaust just make a sexy-sounding Toyota. There is nothing like listening to a throaty 4Runner or Tacoma roll out of a parking lot.
So what is all the hype really about? Why install a CAI?
We need all the help we can get in the performance department so any hp gains are good hp gains to me. Cold air intakes also change the sound of your intake for the better, making it more throaty, giving it a deeper more aggressive growl.
What does it come down to? Budget and driving experience.
If you have the budget to spend $300+ for a few hp gains all while giving you a deeper sound, then go for it. If a deeper more throaty sound and the potential for a few hp gains aren’t worth the cost, don’t worry about it.
So how does the Volant Intake Sound?
Much better than stock. It’s throaty all the way around. Listen to the YouTube Video for reference. No intake whistle, mellow and not overpowering but deep at the same time. I really like Volant intakes.
It’s not a mod for everyone but it’s definitely for me.