If you’re planning on lifting your truck, as a general rule, you should be upgrading your Tacoma’s upper control arms (UCAs).
First off, chances are that your factory UCAs are worn. Whether that be ball joints or bushings, they could use some maintenance. Once you lift your truck (usually 2-3″) you mess with the front end geometry. The factory arms are meant for OEM ride height and performance. An upgraded set will more easily help you get your alignment into spec, provided added strength, restore ideal geometry, increase articulation, and improve your ride and performance.
If you want to get the most out of your new lift kits, don’t forget UCAs.
JBA Offroad has been around for quite some time. And literally ALL they do are upper control arms. That means they’re really good at designing and building them. They have great reviews (you can look them up), they last (very important), and feature a unique ball joint design that’s bolted, not pressed, in. The arms even have patented bushings. Material is sourced and made right here in America. And maybe one of the best deals for when it comes to performance for the cost.
JBA offers two different types. Standard Duty (STD) and Heavy Duty (HD). In this post, I’ll compare and contrast the two, and point you in the right direction of what will work best for your truck.
Find It Online
- STD control arms: Check Price
- HD control arms: Check Price
Table Of Contents
What Do You Get When You Buy A Set?
Let’s start out with what you’re getting when your package lands.
JBA does a really good job with packaging. The arms are secured in their box wedged between expanding foam. Everything is neatly wrapped and encapsulated to ensure a perfect delivery. You always want to see your stuff arrive in good condition. There’s nothing worse than getting a brand new item damaged before you ever install it.
The UCAs are completely preassembled, down to the bushings. Ready to drop straight into your truck. A sealed packet has relevant documentation. A thank you letter and stickers are also included.
Overall first impressions? Couldn’t be better. They clearly care. Oh, and they’re pretty much always in stock, if not on a short 1-2 week lead time.
What’s The Same
So, what features and specs are shared between the two different arms?
Geometry
Both arms share the same geometry. They may have some variations (more on that in the next section), but they are welded on the same jigs. The UCAs both have 3 degrees of built in caster to help dial in good alignment specs.
Ball Joints
JBA uses their own Max 90 ball joints. The 90 standard for degrees in range of motion. 90 degrees is a lot. More than many uniballs. They manufacture them in house (in the USA), there might not be another company that goes to this extent. They use domestically sourced 4140 chromoly steel and they have a Cerakote H Series oven cured coating on them. Sealed and greaseable for longevity and easy maintenance.
I’m not sure that I could name a better ball joint, and I’ve seen a lot different options. The best part is, you don’t need a press to replace them. Simply unbolt them (4 nuts/bolts) and you bolt a new one right in. So incredibly easy. Overbuilt for daily driving, made for tough off-road conditions.
Inner Pivot Bushings
JBA has also patented their own bushings. They call them the EZ lube bushings, and both arms come with grease fittings.
Travel & Articulation
No matter which you choose, you get an additional 1″ of down travel from the high motion range of the ball joint and the added clearance between the arm itself and the coilover/strut. You may hear of people’s UCAs contacting their shocks at full droop. JBA has taken that into account.
Finish
You can’t miss it. JBA uses their signature bright red powder coat to protect everything. A good pop of color to make your suspension stand out, or match other red components like springs.
Recommended Wheel & Tire Size
Most manufacturers (at least the good ones) give you some reference point for a safe wheel/tire combo. Both options have the same allowance.
Maintenance Interval
Both require the same greasing, every 3-5k miles.
Warranty
Both backed by a lifetime guarantee! Not to mention a 365 day return policy.
Lift Kit Compatibility
Both arms work with most spring/leveling lift kits and between 1-3.5″ of lift.
What’s Different
And now, what’s different? A handful of key things.
Weight
The Standard set weighs 18 lbs. and the Heavy Duty set weighs 22 lbs. Not a huge difference, but worth noting.
Tubing
This is a big one. And one big reason the heavy duty is stronger. While both are made from American 1026 DOM A513-5 Tubing, the Standard use a small tube with a thinner wall. 1.06″ OD x 0.75″ ID. Where the Heavy Duty uses 1.313″ OD x 1.00″ OD. That’s a 23.9% and 33.3% difference, respectively. Quite the jump.
This added size really beefs up the Heavy Duty version.
Gusseting
The Heavy Duty gets another boost in reinforcement with the added gussets. They strengthen the connection between the main tubing and the tube used for the bushings.
Price
Naturally, the better arm is going to cost more. Both have a solid price point when compared to other alternatives, especially for what you get. The Standard is $603, the Heavy Duty is $853.
Standard (STD)
A quick look at the Standard above.
Heavy Duty (HD)
A quick look at the Heavy Duty above.
How To Choose Between Them
As with all things, picking the best one for your situation depends on your use and setup.
Given the added features (which ultimately mean added strength), the STD is best for someone with a milder lift kit that still uses their truck as a daily driver and hits the occasional weekend for some light to medium trail riding. You get just enough benefits and performance without going over the top for no reason. Meanwhile, if you use your truck harder for medium to hard off-roading and abuse (like racing, rock crawling, jumping) then the HD are the way to go.
Final Thoughts
These are two really solid options from a company who built their entire reputation on upper control arms. Their products are great and the customer service is nothing short of incredible.
If you have a more budget, weekend warrior type build, go with the STD. If you have a dialed off-road rig that sees considerable use, go with the HD.
Either way, I know these are a solid fit for any setup. Just pick whichever fits your use case best and hit the trails!
On a final note, if you have a 2nd or 3rd Gen Tacoma, then this whole post applies to you. If you have a 4th Gen, JBA only offers the HD HC version.
